This feature story from Civil Eats centers on Apalachicola, Florida, a coastal oyster town where residents are working to care for their bay, restore its ecosystem, and protect a way of life rooted in the water.

After a mix of harmful state policies, climate stress, and a rushed harvest encouraged by officials, the wild oyster fishery collapsed, and the bay was closed in 2020. Now, officials are reopening parts of it –despite scientists warning that the ecosystem may not be ready. Local residents, many of whom come from generations of oyster workers, worry that if the oysters don’t truly recover, their towns will be taken over by resort development and tourism.

Some, like small-scale oyster farmers and community organizers, are working to rebuild a local food system that protects the bay while creating dignified jobs. The future of Apalachicola now hinges on whether restoration efforts can succeed — and whether economic survival can be balanced with ecosystem care.

Dive into the full feature story →

Pictured: Xochitl Bervera and Kung Li of Water Is Life Oysters. Photo Courtesy of Water is Life Oysters